Tuesday, August 7

It's been a longtemps since we rock and rolled

Turning and turning in the widening gyre, our final days in this immortal city deafened us to the falconer's call, the warp and weft of our weave loosened until things fell apart, the centre-ville could hold us no longer, our literary allusions became hopelessly muddled. We were leaving town, but we weren't gonna go without a fight.

Paris didn't fight fair, of course; it threw everything it had at us -- paradisiacal sunsets,
the Tour de France zipping by right outside our front door (more or less),

a fun evening and delectable meal at Desi's favorite restaurant Le Petit Prince care of our good friend Jon Goldman's parents (part-time Parisans themselves), the charmingly Astrophysical Marty and Helen,

a magic-hour picnic dinner on the Pont des Arts with several dozen of our dearest French neighbors,


a visit from Sean's brother Marc, who turned out to possess vitally relevant phylum knowledge regarding a certain furry creature that's been haunting us,


the subsequent au revoir sushi dinner at the Buddah Bar,

and then a final Van Til family reunion dinner at Desi's cousin-via-great-grandfather Roland's jungle roof deck in the 20eme arrondissement, along with his husband Jean-Yves and their good ex-pat New Yorker friend Lee.

After all of that, we were almost ready to throw in the towel and just surrender ourselves to this darned city (where all one does is eat amazing meals, to hear us tell it). The fact of the matter is, our battle to part with Paris did whoop our a$$es in some ways -- Desi was confined to bed-rest for four days with a high fever, and Sean briefly lost his marbles and began assaulting women in the parks,

(well, the part about Desi's true, anyway. Thanks to Doc Christian Felter for your transatlantic diagnosis) -- but we called in the reinforcements and made a final push to escape Paris' merciless grasp...

We got ourselves a GPS navigator and entrusted our fates to its guidance. On August first we mounted up in the least attractive rental car we could find, an Opel Meriva micro-minivan, and sped southward. Hold your breath, 'cause there is more posting to come, and soon! Yeah!! We're back on the road, baby!

Sunday, July 22

Paris Plages - Au Bord de la Seine, La Mer!

When the wealthy tax-payers of Paris leave town to enjoy lengthy summer holidays along the Cote d'Azur, the city government whimsically spends their money to subsidize a trip to the beach for those who can't afford a vacation. They bring the beach to Paris in the form of 3000 tons of sand and enough activities to tire out even Erin Combs.

Enjoy our irony-free video pastiche of Paris Plages:


p.s. this is desi's first foray into shooting & editing video for mass consumption...

Friday, July 20

When Postcards Attack

You may want to not watch this.

Wednesday, July 18

L'Americain à Ses Raisons Que la Raison Ignore

In this week's episode we take on the Parks of...

Yes, Desi still holds out hope that for fleeting moments we are capable of passing as native Frenchfolk. Then she goes and does something like this in the Bagatelle Gardens:

For his part, Sean is comfortable with his inherent "otherness." Here, he earns pocket change by performing an interpretive dance known as "Not All Americans Are A**holes, But We Sure Dance Like Ones:"

Ain't nothin' right about any'a dat.

Gotta say though, there is a certain amount of nuttiness in the air out there in the Bois de Boulogne... as evidenced by this really weird woman taking pictures of an action figure!

Bizarro! Houdini was like "These Frogs are freaks!"

We must, however, amend our friend's impolitic assertion by voicing our profound appreciation for the legality of public wine consumption. It made our 9-month-wedding- anniversary picnic feel all the more special:

Nine months! Woah. Check us out.

Now, our favorite urban green space is just a few blocks away from home, and has been featured in these pages before: the classically beauteous Place des Voges. Last Sunday Sean spotted a famous face among the sunbathers there, and it weren't no marmot this time...

Our other close brush with actors proved even more titillating, when Julia Roth and friend Marushka (both matriculating into NYU acting programs in the fall) celebrated Bastille Day by brunching with us on their last day in Paris. Our sunglasses insisted we Never Hide, and we obeyed:

That night, we got all patriotic-like and walked five miles round trip to have another wine-spiked picnic under the Independence Day (Quatorze Juillet) fireworks on the Seine. We passed bridge after bridge teeming with Parisians...

(Pont des Arts)

...before Desi spotted the ideal perch on the Pont de La Concorde, right beside a family of eight Sri Lankans who shrieked with delight every single time this happened:

But back to the parks, if you insist. On the east side of town, we made an incursion into the Bois de Vincennes, and flaunted our touristic essence by playing frisbee all along the Grand Alee some ancient monarch once cut through the heart of his giant woodland.

Tiny in the background there you can just make out the medieval castle and cathedral that we're ignoring in favor of a spinning piece of plastic.

And this is the last image we have of Desi, seconds before she got her face gobbled off by a 4 foot tall Van Til-vorous water lily. Close observers will notice her shoulders smoking from the sunburn she's getting. A resultant fun adventure involved trying to explain to a French pharmacist why Desi desperately needed Aloe Vera gel.

Haven't you heard? After Bastille Day, they did away with that austere metal Tour Eiffel and remodeled it in bungee cord for the digital age. Here, Sean conquers it. At night, he sparkles on the hour.

Our landlord Barnabe noticed the sparkling, so he dropped in on us for a "mail pick-up and bavarder" visit. We like him and admire his life-long devotion to the yogic practice. He just spent two straight days and nights in a tree to regain his mental focus and balance, and now is off to West Africa for the month of August. (He's still looking for a sub-letter for the apartment for the month! Get on board everyone!) We theorize that if we lived here, we would befriend him and attend his classes.

We'd probably also go to the farmers' market every weekend...

But buying flowers makes Desi soooo sleepy.

Now that you mention it, here's more evidence that we aren't dining out every single night:

You may not want to be made aware of the fact that we are consistently documenting the other end of the alimentary process as well... We'd post the pics, but the faces we make are not as cute in those shots.

One meal on the town well worth documenting was had at the north African resto "404" in the Beaubourg District... Thanks for the suggestion monsieur Fred Berger. We inhaled several kilos of couscous in your honor, while admiring the decor and magical lighting:

The value of the dollar ain't the only thing plunging around here!..

And finally, a few more store-fronts that we think need to be franchised in the States:

You made it all the way through! Your reward will come in heaven.

Saturday, July 14

MONTREUX: The Vacation from our Vacation

Walking around Paris, eating divine meals, picnicking in gardens...well, frankly, it all gets so tiring. We needed to take a break from that relentless beauty and hedonism, and where else to go for a two-day jaunt but Montreux, Swizterland. A four hour train ride* delivered us like newborns to this most mythic and picturesque village along Lake Geneva, which heretofore we will refer to by its name en Suisse: Lac Leman. Pardon our plethoric documentation, but the Alps are like towering, gorgeous supermodels begging to be photographed.
*A four hour train ride which became more pleasant when a girl in plain sight in our car's hallway casually stripped naked, and slowly dressed again one languorous item at a time. We don't know if this is routinely done in Switzerland or if it was just our good fortune, but the presence of a butt-naked young lady certainly helped the rest of our train ride just fly by.


We arrived in the rain, but the clouds parted and bathed us in Swiss Sunlight. We did a small photo shoot and proceeded to have the most peculiar Mexican Meal ever eaten. It involved porc, it involved guacamole, and it also involved the slowest waiter ever. When we asked him, approximately an hour into our meal, if any food was going to come, he responded that he needed to go detruire le porc.

The local Freddie Mercury statue gives a Rebel Yell to Lac Leman.

Desi bows before Her Highness, and learns from the plaque that Mercury recorded and lived in Montreux for years, "enjoying his neighbors' discretion," among other Swiss pleasures.

Though most might think this is a green screen or that Sean futzed with the color settings, indeed the lake is that aqua-marine, the sky that blue, Desi's teeth that white.

Free breakfast of sausage, granola and nutella in a palatial Victorian parlor on the water front: the only reason Sean and Desi have seen the 8:00 am hour since their arrival in Europe.

The view from our hotel room...are you kidding? But a great view from our hotel hallway no less.

An image of the lively, Euro-youth-infested street fair associated with the 15 day long, famed Montreux Jazz Festival. And no, we did not dine on fondue or raclettes ... rather, it was Thai, Vietnamese, and Italian all the way. Speaking of the Montreux Jazz Festival, we owe a shout out to the artist who brought us to Switzerland to begin with, the inimitable Rufus Wainwright who gave an incredible concert Thursday night. Thanks to Sean's height (although, his 2 metres were par for the course in Tall-Man Nation), we finagled our way to the foot of the stage and watched Rufus sing his heart out to us in lederhosen (see below), less than 12 feet away.

www.rufuswainwright.com
For those of you who don't know him, Rufus is a musical genius whose latest self-produced album Release the Stars, is magnifique.

Sean gives a casual, "I'm a handsome man" pose before another of the wonders of the world. Switzerland is the country responsible for the elopement of Roy and Linda Van Til, where just over those mountain ranges in the chalet-intensive town of Zermatt, under the Matterhorn, in 1972, le Van Til dynasty began.

We decided to elope too: Mom, Dad - we got married! We registered at www.theeuroisreallystrongrightnow.com

Desi, dressed kinkily as an Air France stewardess, offers Sean some coffee with that view.

A photo of Desi's great great grandmother in Montreux, circa 1844.

Les Dents du Midi shrouded in mystery, aka, white puffy clouds.

Whee! Thursday, July 12th was such a spectacular day that the universe seemed to demand we rent a motorboat and zip across the face of Lac Leman. And to be completely honest, we'd been inspired by our pals Darin and Robin Mark, who sent us some awesome shots of a recent fearless jetski foray (below). Granted, we were laughed out of the rental shack when we asked for life-jackets, since our motorboat pushed a max speed of 1 demi-knot per hour, as opposed to the Marks' mobile:

Bad to the bone, kids. We eat your spritz.

Our hotel : Eden Palace au Lac, seen from the lac.

The medieval Chillon Castle, which captured the imaginations of Byron, Dumas, Shelly and others too ancient to name. Give a sh*t? Learn more at www.chillon.ch/en/

On the train ride home from our micro-adventure, we got a flabbergasting email from friend Jen Heath, whose husband Bo has recently become a Maine celebrity. It is with much joy that we share this gritty tale of Bo, handling things well:
www.bangornews.com/news/t/news.aspx?articleid=151996&zoneid=500

And if that didn't turn your stomach, maybe this will:



It's a video! Click on it! Enjoy! Eat more veggies and do your crunches!!